Aborigen is a collective of anarchists and rebels who are stirring lees and stirring shit up in Mexico’s Ensenada. Their project is rooted in activism as much as it is winemaking. And through the latter, they are highlighting agricultural and climate issues on the Baja California Peninsula. The Arre Niño rosé is basically punk Provençal rosé. No overripe fruit here, just chewy tannins, some sea salt, and roses. This wine is delicious. The label is crazy as hell, too: a digital, surrealist-maximalist dreamscape.