The idea of a "wine of place" can be so abstract. But on an island in the Mediterranean, miles from any other part of the world, what you’re left with is what’s uniquely there. It’s expressed in this Macerato, whose deep tannins, waxy, slightly oxidative nose, and briny stonefruit all paint a vivid picture. The picture of island life in Marsala, Sicily. Wines like these helped me to understand that a "wine of place" is not about the country it's from or the name of a famous village, but of the actual place—the geology, the flora, the fauna, the invertebrates, the elevation, the weather, the groundwater, the soil, the fungi, and the people: these are what make a wine of place, a wine of place. —Billy Smith