Here in Tenerife, one of the Canary Islands off the coast of Morocco, rugged vineyards can be 200 years old and winemaking methods can be brazenly old-school. Jonatan García Lima works a parcel of Listán Blanco (aka Palomino in Sherry country) that’s planted on an ancient system called “trenzado” in which the vines are braided up volcanic slopes like arms, some extending 30 feet. We would gladly reach many, many feet to get our hands on a bottle of this textural, savory, bright white wine. Its stinky, volcanic-terroir aromas may shock, but its palate is crystalline and pure. A juxtaposition that keeps Canary Islands wines at the top of many tuned-in drinkers’ lists.