Chardonnay has been unfairly pigeonholed: buttery, oaky etc. Morel executes a lovely version of the Jura style for his "Les Trouillots," which couldn't be more different. By working in a radically natural (zero-zero) style, Morel proudly exhibits the mineral, savory possibilities of the grape, backed by a spine of acidity which begs for the next sip. As a living being, lacking in any preservatives, there is a bit of funk developing as the bottle stays open, so drink with abandon, alongside friends who live to skirt the line between elegance and eccentricity.